Off-the-shoulder ruffles. Power suits with sexy slits. Sculptural heels that looked like they just came out of a kiln.
Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2018 collection exuded nonchalant chic with architectural, yet deconstructed shapes in classic color combinations like black and white, red and black and baby pink.
Pristinely cut ruffled baby doll tops and body-skimming skirts with slits were among the simpler recurring themes.
The outliers were the ribbed knit two-pieces. There was a powder-pink peplum and skirt combination topped with a white leather bralette-inspired harness, and a red set of the same caliber complete with a black leather harness.
After the bondage-esque pieces, prints were introduced into the collection. The designers created car coats and ruffled two-piece outfits in moody floral fabrics in red, black and white.
Next to come were body-conscious lace maxi dresses and pants that followed the same color scheme.
After these pieces, the collection branched off to become a mash-up of the beginning of the show. Lace, harnesses, floral prints, ruffles in body-skimming and flowy pieces combined to evoke an offbeat ease on the fresh-faced models.
Then came the standout pieces. A fluffy white fur jacket and a black feathered skirt embellished with hook and eyes screamed “Old Hollywood” glamour. Several other dresses followed, also containing the black and white color palette and the extravagant feathers.
Overall, the collection was cohesive, playful, unconventional and feminine, an aesthetic the design house always seems to master.
This was the house’s first showing at Paris Couture Week, instead of the usual New York showing. The collection’s innovative, fetish-inspired elements proved that the house’s designers, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, made a fitting transition.